Wool Types and how they are used

When you think of the British countryside, images of rolling hills dotted with sheep often comes to mind.

These iconic animals have been an integral part of rural life in Britain for centuries, providing not only meat but also one of nature’s most versatile fibre: wool.

Britain has a rich tapestry of sheep breeds, each with its own unique characteristics and wool types, catering to a variety of applications and end products.

In this blog, we’ll explore the different wool types, characteristics, and the diverse applications each type can be used for.

Key Words & Terms

To start with lets look at some of the terminology and key words that are commonly used to explain the characteristics

Grease wool: Wool as it is shorn from the sheep, before any processing.

Staple: Refers to the length of a lock of shorn wool; in the wool trade “staple” refers to the longer length wools within a grade.

Staple length: The average length of fibre in a fleece measured from the skin to the tips of the individual fibres.

Crimp: The natural waviness of the wool fibre; it varies with the diameter of the fibre.

Micron: A measure of fineness used in the fibre industry. One micron is one millionth of a meter; when fibre is tested for fineness it is expressed in microns and usually is accompanied with “Standard deviation and co-efficient of variation” of micron.

Kemp: Brittle, chalky white, weak fibre found as an impurity in the fleece.

Lanolin: Wool grease; this substance, sometimes called “yolk” is a secretion from the sebaceous glands of the sheep skin.

Scouring: The actual separation of dirt, grease and foreign matter from grease wool; this is usually done in a lukewarm, mildly alkaline solution followed by a rinse.

Wool Types

Wool comes in a myriad of types, each with its own distinct characteristics and applications.

Fine wool, often associated with breeds like the Suffolk and Portland, these down-land sheep breed have generally short and springy staples. The diameter of the wool fibre very much influences the end use of the wool and, with a micron count of between 29 and 35, and therefore wool in this category can be used for many end products, including; fabric, tweed, bedding and knitwear.

Medium wool, from breeds such as the Romney, strikes a balance between softness and durability. Not quite as fine as down-land breeds, the micron count is usually between 31-35 and represent some of the most versatile wools in the British clip. Mostly white wools which will dye well, with some springiness. The finer qualities are suitable for apparel yarns for cloth and knitwear. The rest is selected for harder wearing tweeds and, sometimes, carpets.

Crossbred wool, such as that of the Mule and Masham, influenced by the sire, usually the Bluefaced Leicester. Because of this, this wool type has a huge variety depending on which parental traits are more prevalent in the fleece. The wool can be fairly fine, with a micron count of 29-35. With the fine qualities used in blends for knitwear and cloth. With the courser wool being used in carpets, underlay, insulation and packaging. This wool type currently represents approximately 25% of the the UK’s annual clip.

Lustre wool, these wools have a sheen which dye effectively. They are long-stapled, usually curly or crimped, and have a soft, almost ‘soapy’ handle. The variation in the thickness of the fibre is considerable with the Bluefaced Leicester the finest in the British clip, approximately 26 micron, while the Devon and Cornwall Longwool is coarser. Finer types are used in fine tailoring, knitwear and hand knitting yarn, coarser wool is generally used in upholstery and tweeds.

Hill wool, including Kerry Hill and Cheviot. Wool from native hill breeds varies from fine, fairly soft handling fleeces which are used in yarns, bedding and fabric, to a coarser, crisp fibre which has some resilience and ‘body’. It is usually within the 30-33 micron range. Kemp, brittle white fibre, that will not easily dye, occurs in some of the coarser wools. If not excessive, this can be used for effect in tweeds and carpets.

Mountain wool, typified by breeds like the Blackface and Swaledale. These sheep are native to the harsh environment and weather of the fells and mountains. Necessarily producing a bulky fleece of coarser quality, which protects the animals. Measuring 35 micron and above. This type of wool is particularly resilient, contains brittle white kemp and is very hard wearing. Mainly used in carpets, underlay, insulation and packaging.

Naturally coloured wool, like Jacob, Herdwick and Zwartbles, showcases a spectrum of hues from creamy whites to rich browns and blacks, adding depth and character to artisanal textiles and handcrafted goods. With a micron range of 30 – 35+, the thickness of the fibre can vary enormously, depending both on the breed and where it is farmed. Shetland is one of the finer, Herdwick, with considerable brittle, white kemp, is usually coarser. Finest qualities of these wools are used in cloth and hand knitting yarns. Coarser grades are used for carpets and insulation.

To find out more about how the different wool types are used in different products, why not purchase our Sheep Breed and Wool book